Fixtures, outlets & smart installs
Better light, working outlets, and a lock you can open with your phone.
- Starting at
- $45
- Typical visit
- 30 min – 2 hrs
- Student rate
- −10%
- Lead time
- 2–4 days
The overhead fixture in a Boston student apartment is usually a single bare bulb behind a yellowed glass dome installed during the Carter administration. Swapping it for something decent is a thirty-minute job and changes how the room feels more than anything else you can do for under $100.
We also replace dead outlets and switches, install smart locks, doorbells, bulbs and plugs, and get the whole thing actually talking to your phone rather than sitting half-configured in an app you never open.
We work on standard 120V residential fixture-level replacements. Anything involving the panel, new circuits, or aluminum wiring goes to a licensed electrician — we'll tell you and we won't charge you for finding out.
What's included
- Power confirmed dead at the device before we touch it
- Like-for-like fixture, outlet and switch replacement
- Smoke and CO detectors tested, dated and logged — never removed
- Smart device pairing, app setup and roommate access
- Old fixture taken away
- Original hardware bagged and labelled for move-out
Typical rates
Pick your line items
- Light fixture swap$95
Per fixture — flush mount, pendant, vanity bar
- Outlet or switch replacement$80
Per device, standard 120V
- Smoke / CO detector service$45
The 3am chirp, a dead unit, or one past its 10-year expiry — battery, test, or swap the whole detector
+ Batteries at cost (~$4) and a replacement detector at cost if the unit is expired, typically $18–$45.
- Dimmer install$90
Per switch
- Smart lock install$120
Keypad or deadbolt replacement, roommate codes set up
- Smart bulbs, plugs & sensors$45
Per room — installed, paired and named properly
- Ceiling fan install$165
Includes bracing check for the box
Estimates, not sealed quotes · $75 minimum per visit
Questions
Fixtures, outlets & smart installs, specifically
The things people actually ask us on this job.
Are you licensed electricians?
No. We do fixture-level swaps on existing 120V circuits — replacing a light fixture, an outlet, a switch, installing a smart lock. That's the boundary and we hold it. Panel work, new circuits, anything with knob-and-tube or aluminum wiring, or anything that smells hot goes straight to a licensed electrician.
Can I change the light fixture in a rental?
Usually yes, provided you keep the original and put it back at move-out. That's exactly why we bag and label the old hardware and leave it in your closet — at move-out we can reinstall it in twenty minutes and your landlord never knows the difference.
Will a smart lock work on my apartment door?
Send us a photo of the current deadbolt and the door edge before you buy. Most standard deadbolts swap directly. Multi-point locks, mortise locks in older buildings, and metal fire doors sometimes don't, and it's much better to know before the box is opened.
My outlet is dead but the breaker is fine.
Nine times out of ten it's a tripped GFCI somewhere else on the circuit — often in the bathroom or kitchen, sometimes in a closet. We'll find it. If it's not that, it's a back-stabbed connection that's worked loose, which we can also fix.
My smoke detector won't stop chirping. Can you just take it down?
No, and please don't do it yourself either. In Massachusetts your landlord is legally required to keep working smoke and CO detectors in the unit, and removing or disabling one is both illegal and the single most dangerous thing you can do in an old triple-decker. The chirp is almost always a dying battery or a unit past its expiry — both of which we fix in about twenty minutes.
How do I know if my detector is expired?
Take it down and look at the back — every detector has a manufacture date printed on it, and they stop being reliable after 10 years (7 for most CO units). Students inherit these, so a shocking number of Boston apartments are running detectors older than the tenant's lease. If yours is expired we'll tell you and swap it, and the replacement is billed at exactly what it cost.
It goes off every time I cook. Is that normal?
It's common and it's usually placement plus detector type. Ionisation detectors sit right next to a kitchen and react to toast; a photoelectric unit in the same spot generally won't. Massachusetts building code actually requires photoelectric detectors within 20 feet of a kitchen or bathroom in many cases, so if yours is chirping at your cooking there's a fair chance it's the wrong type in the wrong place — worth raising with your landlord in writing, and we'll put it in the written summary for you.
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